John and his wife, Mary, live somewhere between Pine River and Longville, but right now are enjoying the warmth of New Zealand. After owning Manhattan Beach Lodge from 1990 until 2002, they definitely have lots of professional experience that the rest of us "home cooks" don't have.

If you recall (or clipped), that column helped you with some great recipes for New Year's Eve: Osso Bucco and Risotto Alla Milanese (along with some killer Chocolate Walnut Bread Pudding). John was responding to my comment of "invite your guests into the kitchen to keep you company while you stir the risotto" with a wonderful suggestion to make your life much easier.

"In our early years, we would go off and beg our way into big-time restaurants during the winter to broaden our exposure and solve a multitude of problems. One of those problems was preparing risotto to order when 'to order' in our part of the world means 15 minutes. We learned that in the afternoon before service, we could prepare the risotto 'al dente,' going through all the motions of wine, garlic and multiple additions of stock. When the rice was almost ready, we would pull it from the heat and quickly spread it on a parchment paper covered sheet pan to cool. At the point of service, we could then heat a ladle of stock in a saucepan and add a single serving of risotto, followed by a grating of parmesan and the result was perfect. This is how the big-time restaurants serve risotto to a multitude and would work for a company dinner at home as well."

I responded by asking John when you should add the "goodies" (i.e. seafoods, veggies, etc.). His response, "It depends. The additions you want to flavor the rice should be added early on, especially if they can stand the cooking time. Wild mushrooms, for example, should be added to the sautŽ step with the garlic and before the rice. With asparagus, put the stalks in early and add the tips at the end with the Parmesan. For ingredients that are precooked, like seafood or meat, I would add them during the final addition of liquid to just bring back up to temperature."

My thanks to John and Mary for sharing their knowledge with us and, because of their wonderful hint, I thought risotto recipes for today's column would allow us all to practice. Those of you who work could make the risotto the night before (be sure to refrigerate it) so it could quickly get on the table for a truly "home cooked" meal.

The rest of us could practice the two-step method in preparation for having company. The other nice thing about risotto is that it generally is not expensive to make. Be sure to use Arborio or Carnaroli rice, however, as they absorb the flavors better and will also become creamy as you stir.

Risotto with Spicy Sausage is a great recipe to start with as it can be prepared in 45 minutes or less if you go straight through. Part of that is due to the fact that a majority of the broth is added right at the beginning, rather unusual for a risotto recipe, but it still requires all the stirring.

Risotto with Leeks, Shiitake Mushrooms and Truffles is more complicated but, after you've practiced with the first recipe, you'll be just fine. Do it in steps (as the recipe suggests) and it will go smoothly; it's really a three-step recipe.

As for the truffles and truffle oil, I used the oil (because I happened to have it) and did not use the truffles. When you use leeks, be sure to wash them carefully as sometimes they have sand in between the layers. My way of cleaning them is to discard above the white and pale portion, cut what you've saved lengthwise and then, laying the two parts down flat, cut them crosswise into thin pieces.

Put the leeks into a colander, rinse really well with water, swirling them around, and allow water to drain well. So far, that's worked every time.

Again, my thanks to Mary and John Zesbaugh for their helpful hint that started today's column.

Risotto with leeks, Shitake Mushrooms & Tuffles
Bon Appetit
6 to 8 first course or 3 to 4 entries

Leeks:
2 large leeks (white and pale green parts only), halved, thinly sliced crosswise (about 2 cups)
3/4 cup whipping cream
Mushrooms:
1 pound shiitake mushrooms, stemmed, cut into 1/4- to 1/3-inch thick slices
1 large onion, halved, thinly sliced lengthwise
1/4 cup (1/2 stick) butter, melted
1 tablespoon white truffle oil
1 teaspoon minced fresh thyme leaves
Risotto:
4 tablespoons (1/2 stick) butter, divided
1 large onion, chopped
1 1/2 cups Arborio or Carnaroli rice
1/2 cup dry white wine
5 cups (or more) hot vegetable broth
1/2 cup grated Parmesan cheese
2 teaspoons shaved or chopped black truffle (optional)
Chopped fresh parsley

For leeks: Bring leeks and cream to a boil in heavy medium saucepan. Reduce heat to medium and simmer until leeks are tender and cream is thick, stirring often, about 15 minutes. Season with salt and pepper. (Can be made one day ahead. Cover and chill. Rewarm before continuing.)

For mushrooms: Preheat oven to 400 degrees. Toss all ingredients on rimmed baking sheet. Sprinkle with salt and pepper. Roast until mushrooms are tender and light brown around edges, stirring occasionally, about 45 minutes. (Can be made two hours ahead. Let stand at room temperature.)

Melt 2 tablespoons butter in heavy large saucepan over medium heat. Add onion and cook until beginning to soften, about 5 minutes. Add rice; stir 1 minute. Add wine and stir until almost all liquid is absorbed, about 1 minute. Add 1 cup hot broth. Simmer until broth is almost absorbed, stirring often, about 4 minutes. Add more broth, 1 cup at a time, allowing each addition to be absorbed before adding next and stirring often, until rice is tender and mixture is creamy, about 20 minutes longer. Stir in leek mixture, mushroom mixture, remaining 2 tablespoons butter, cheese and truffle. Transfer to a large bowl, sprinkle with parsley, and serve.

Risotto with Spicy Sausage
8 first course or 4 as an entree

1 pound spicy Italian sausages, casings removed
1 1/2 cups chopped onion
2 large garlic cloves, chopped
1 1/4 cups Arborio or Carnaroli rice
4 to 5 cups canned low-salt chicken broth
1 1/4 cups grated Parmesan cheese, divided
1/2 cup chopped fresh Italian parsley (flat-leaf parsley), divided
SautŽ sausage, onion and garlic in heavy large saucepan over medium heat until onion is tender, breaking up sausage with spoon, about 8 minutes. Add rice and stir 1 minute. Add 4 cups broth. Reduce heat to medium-low and simmer until broth is absorbed, stirring frequently, about 15 minutes. Continue to simmer until rice is just tender and mixture is creamy, adding more broth a quarter cup at a time and stirring frequently, about 6 minutes longer. Mix in 1/4 cup cheese and 1/4 cup parsley. Season with salt and pepper.

Transfer risotto to large bowl. Sprinkle with 1/4 cup remaining parsley. Pass the remaining 1 cup of cheese separately.

Bon appetit!

Nancy Adams can be reached at nkadams@uslink.net

Copyright 2008 by Nancy A. Adams